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  • Mogging 101: How Should You Be Looksmaxxing?

    Mogging 101: How Should You Be Looksmaxxing?

    By Bela Koganti

    ~ 9 minutes


    Where were you when ASU frat leader frame mogged Clavicular? According to Merriam-Webster, looksmaxxing refers to:

    “efforts, sometimes extreme, young men take to look more attractive”

    Under the looksmaxxing umbrella, you’ve got frame mogging, black pill, True Adams, True Eves, and everything in between. Now, with so many terms thrown around Tiktok, Instagram Reels, and Youtube Shorts, it can seem impossible to figure out what’s real or how any of it even works. So, let’s embark on a journey through a few of the most popular looksmaxxing techniques.

    A Precaution

    Before we begin, it’s important to note that you absolutely do not need to do any of this. In fact, some of these techniques are much more harmful than beneficial, which we’ll explore. Your genetics and individuality  make you, you! So, even if you feel compelled to change on the outside, hold onto who you are on the inside and don’t damage yourself just to chisel your face a little more. Alright, now that we’re clear, let’s get started!

    Bonesmashing

    We’re starting off with a scary-sounding and somewhat severe one. Bonesmashing is literally pummeling your facial bones–specifically those on your cheeks, chin, and jawline–with a hammer to alter your bone structure. Thanks to Wolff’s Law, many indulgers believe that the ‘bonesmashing’ changes the shape of their bones, therefore defining their faces. 

    In the nineteenth century, German surgeon Julius Wolff explored the observation that bones continuously reshape themselves as old, broken bones dissipate into the body and are replaced by new ones. Thus, he proclaimed that mechanical force and trauma to your bones can speed up the replacement process, making thicker bones; looksmaxxers adopted his theory, banking on the hope that those thick bones will appear more prominent and defined in their faces. 

    Charlie Sosnick / What is Bonesmashing? Inside the Extreme Looksmaxxer Technique / GQ

    Essentially, they hit their faces to break or ‘smash’ the bones and make new, chiseled ones. However, it really only makes them worse for the wear. The mechanical force Wolff discussed was really meant to mean exercising and lifting weights, not pummeling your face. While your bones may end up healing differently than before, you really don’t know that they’ll end up looking any better. Also, your facial appearance doesn’t just result from your bones. Tissues and organs could be irreversibly damaged, and pounding your skin could cause lesions that could easily get infected. Your nutrition and hormones also affect your bone health, so bonesmashing may not even do much at all. 

    Honestly, hurting yourself with whatever mallet you can find really isn’t worth it. Rather than ending up chiseled, it’s much more likely that your bones will reshape in unnatural looking ways or simply not change at all.

    Limb Lengthening Surgery

    Okay, this one is also intense! Limb lengthening surgery is a procedure in which a surgeon breaks the femur or tibia in a patient’s legs before putting a magnetic rod and pins inside the bone to ensure and manipulate a lengthened bone. Post-op, patients adjust the rod a little each day, stretching out the bone, muscles, tendons, skin, and arteries. Generally, limb lengthening surgery can make you up to six inches taller. Limb lengthening was first meant to fix leg length differences and misalignments from birth deformities, disease, and injuries. However, it has recently become a popular cosmetic surgery.

    Leg-lengthening surgery takes the world by storm / EastCoast Radio

    While many look at limb lengthening surgery and only see the promise of getting taller, you’re also sidelined for quite a while after surgery. You’d likely need extensive physical therapy to recover, and you could be unable to exercise- or even walk unassisted- for about twice as long as the months spent adjusting the rod. For instance, if you spent three months stretching your legs out, you’d spend another six months fully sedentary or, if you’re lucky, doing minimal walking with crutches and walkers. And of course, you’d need multiple follow-up appointments with your doctor. Jeez. 

    Other than being bored to death during the recovery phase, there are multiple risks associated with limb lengthening: blood clots; infection; damage to nerves and blood vessels; improper and misaligned bone healing; tightness; and the rod malfunctioning, causing you to need another surgery. 

    Of course, limb lengthening surgery is a terrific option for you if you really, really, want to get taller, or if it’ll correct leg length misalignments. However, you must be ready to undergo months of sedentariness, thorough physical therapy, numerous doctor appointments, and the aforementioned side effects and risks, which could require even more surgery or lead to severe health issues. 

    If you’re absolutely certain that this is the surgery for you, go for it! But if you have even an inkling of doubt, reevaluate whether all this pain is worth a couple inches.

    Haircuts

    Finally! We’ve made it to something a little more accessible and relevant for the average person. All over social media, influencers have been pushing the narrative that haircuts significantly change people’s perceptions of your attractiveness (think: that popular haircare line BASED, those obviously dramatized haircut transformations, and arguments over whether people’s natural hair colors suit them best). But is this true?

    In a study done by Nobert Mesko and Tamas Bereczkei, women’s faces were evaluated on femininity, youth, health, and sexiness when wearing six different hairstyles (short, medium-long, long, disheveled, in a bun, and unkempt) in comparison to faces that were bald (basic face). They found that only long and medium-long hair positively and significantly affected the evaluation rankings. Actually, the category that longer hair most affected was health—the male raters thought the women appeared more healthy with longer hair, even if they rated them lower on overall attractiveness. So, Mesko and Bereczkei theorized that because having longer hair is much more expensive than short (shampoo costs, haircuts, etc), it is associated with being more wealthy and having better genes. 

    Pretty interesting, right? Here’s a blog post that claims to know the correlation between haircuts and overall beauty. But remember—this is a blog, so it can’t really be trusted for anything more than basic observation skills. Pouya Zoghipour says hair color, length, and texture are the biggest factors. According to her, hair color comes with stereotypes, so you adopt those when meeting other people. About hair length, she doesn’t say what’s ‘best’ but believes that

    “Long hair is often associated with femininity and youthfulness, while shorter hairstyles can convey confidence and assertiveness.”

    Zoghipour also emphasizes that you must learn to understand and work with your natural hair texture, saying that

    “Curly hair is often seen as playful and energetic, while straight hair is perceived as sleek and sophisticated.”

    She has other tips, but these are her main three. 

    A Yale study, on the other hand, emphasized the correlation between your hair and your self-esteem. Think about it: if you wake up late with crazy hair and have no time to fix it, you’ll probably feel a little self-conscious all day, and you’ll probably be a little more reserved. You wouldn’t really be able to give as much energy and enthusiasm as you would on a day where, well, your hair looked fantastic and you felt fantastic. Look good, feel good, right? Plus, waking up late and not loving how your hair looks can often feel like the first sign of a bad day, so you can sometimes end up seeking out the inconveniences in your day.

    So, while your hair somewhat impacts how attractive others think you are, it can also impact how you feel and your outlook on your everyday life. You know, I’d agree with Zoghipour that learning to love and care for your hair can pay fantastic dividends!

    How Looksmaxxing Affects You, Not Just Your Face

    Although the aforementioned ‘look good, feel good’ phrase is real and working, I’d argue that finding comfort and joy in the way you look now is much more impactful than crushing up your facial bones or getting surgery for a few more inches of height. While such strategies can absolutely help your self-confidence, just accepting and loving who you are now is a better long-term solution and can also protect you from any impostor syndrome. 

    According to Oxford Languages, impostor syndrome is

    “the persistent inability to believe that one’s success is deserved or has been legitimately achieved as a result of one’s own efforts or skills.”

    I mean, a core belief of  looksmaxxing is that those who are attractive have life easier. If you only found happiness and success after changing yourself down to the bone, you might catch a little bit of impostor syndrome.

    And looking past how you see yourself, what about how you see others? When you fall so far down the rabbit hole of examining and picking apart yourself, when do you begin doing it to the people you see walking down the street? Personally, I already see looksmaxxers analyzing innocent teens’ lip syncs all over TikTok. Can you imagine doing that in real life?

    Of course, looksmaxxing is often just an odd and pretty comedic way to disguise attempts to better your appearance. However, in some cases, two funny bonesmashing videos can soon lead to two hours on the black pill side of the internet, and that can lead to an entire adolescence spent critiquing and completely changing yourself. So, proceed with caution, and remember that none of this is actually necessary. 


    References

    Lee, B. Y. (2023, October 2). ‘Bone smashing’ TikTok trend, here are dangers of hammering your face. Forbes. https://www.forbes.com/sites/brucelee/2023/09/28/bone-smashing-tiktok-trend-here-are-dangers-of-hammering-your-face/?sh=509590387a92 
    Limb lengthening surgery. (n.d.). Penn Medicine. https://www.pennmedicine.org/treatments/limb-lengthening 
    Martinez, M. (n.d.). Bone smashing doesn’t work. What to do instead. PerfectB. https://www.perfectb.com/does-bonesmashing-actually-work-a-doctors-guide-to-the-looksmaxxing-trend/ 
    Mesko, N., & Bereczkei, T. (2004). Hairstyle as an adaptive means of displaying phenotypic quality. Human nature (Hawthorne, N.Y.), 15(3), 251–270. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12110-004-1008-6
    Sarah. (n.d.). The importance of hair in making a first impression. Belgravia Centre. https://www.belgraviacentre.com/blog/the-importance-of-hair-in-making-a-first-impression 
    Zoghipour, P. (2024, August 24). Does hairstyle affect attractiveness? Sabanci University. https://myweb.sabanciuniv.edu/pouyazoghipour/2024/08/24/does-hairstyle-affect-attractiveness/ 

  • Straight to the Point: The Chemistry Behind Permanent Hair Straightening 

    Straight to the Point: The Chemistry Behind Permanent Hair Straightening 

    By Aravli Paliwal

    ~8 minutes


    Growing up with thick, unruly curls, I rarely felt comfortable wearing my hair down at events without straightening it completely. The frizz felt impossible to tame, the ends felt rough and bushy, and even up in a ponytail, my hair still looked like it had survived a whirlwind.

    Now, I’m writing this all in the past-tense, because just this week I decided to undergo a permanent Japanese hair straightening treatment. Usually, when I mention this, people fixate on the word “permanent,” followed by “but your natural hair was so pretty” or “why would you do that?” These comments don’t bother me too much because my hair looks and feels 100x better than it did previously. But what really gets under my skin is just how much time and research it took to find the right treatment option, thanks to the internet’s endless muddle of conflicting information about hair straightening.

    There are a bajillion different options- Which one is right for me?

    As soon as I clicked “enter” after searching “permanent hair straightening,” I was introduced to 3 different treatments that all sounded, well, exactly the same. To the untrained reader, a Japanese hair straightening treatment, Brazilian blowout, and Korean Keratin treatment sound like different countries each decided to stick their name in front of the exact same thing, but after doing a couple hours of research, it wasn’t the pros that stuck out to me- it was the cons.

    Brazilian Blowout

    Uterine cancer. Ovarian cancer. Leukemia. Well, it sounds like I should be showing up to the hair salon in a hazmat suit if these are the side effects- so is this actually true? Short answer- yes. 

    Everyone’s hair is composed primarily of Keratin, a protein structure held together by disulfide bonds (S-S) → (this determines if your hair is curly or straight to begin with) and weaker hydrogen bonds (easily broken down by water).

    Diagram 1

    Unlike Japanese hair straightening treatments, Brazilian blowouts do NOT permanently break down and restructure these S-S bonds, so the straightening effect is more temporary. The straightened results typically last around 3-4 months; though, the thicker and healthier your hair is, the longer the treatment lasts. However, after treatment at the salon, the hair is never pin-straight, and throughout this 3-4 month period, your hair gradually gains its natural curl pattern back.

    After thoroughly washing the hair and exposing its cuticle, Brazilian blowout stylists begin to apply a solution that includes aldehydes like methylene glycol. This is where the cancer sirens go off. When brands claim that their treatment is formaldehyde-free, what they don’t understand is that this methylene glycol releases formaldehyde when heated, and formaldehyde exposure is known to increase the risk of all the nasty cancers that Google warns you about from the beginning. The following chemical equation explains exactly how formaldehyde gas fumes are produced during Brazilian blowouts.

    Diagram 2

    This heat is introduced when the stylist flat-irons hair at ~450°F. Instead of breaking the preexisting disulfide bonds and reforming them, the treatment adds new chemical S-S bridges that hold the hair in a straighter shape temporarily, with a carcinogenic formaldehyde byproduct.

    Keratin Treatment

    When researching different straightening treatments, Keratin treatments are often the most difficult to understand because there are two different techniques. In both treatments, a Keratin-based solution (primarily peptides and protein because “keratin” is literally just the protein that makes up your hair) is applied to the hair. Now after this, the stylist has two options:

    1. They can continue by essentially replicating the Brazilian blowout and reintroducing the carcinogenic formaldehyde after flat-ironing the hair (same 3-4 month results, never achieve pin-straight hair).
    2. They can go the formaldehyde-free route and only coat the hair’s cuticle in the Keratin-solution without taking further steps. This results in smoother, shinier hair with less frizz; however, this process does not chemically alter any disulfide bonds, and has practically no permanent straightening effect.

    Japanese Hair Straightening

    Websites like to scare people by framing Japanese straightening treatments as the “nuclear option,” with “straight hair for life” and “no room for regrets.” While it is more of a commitment than the other straightening treatments because it actually lasts no matter what hair texture you have, it is by no means “lifelong.” Furthermore, Japanese straightening is the only treatment that doesn’t produce carcinogenic formaldehyde as a byproduct, and instead uses a safer ammonium thioglycolate.

    The strongly alkaline ammonium thioglycolate directly attacks disulfide bonds and completely restructures them:

    Josh Bloom / American Council on Science and Health

    This “weaker” hair is easily manipulated into the straightened shape you want, and after the solution has set, the hair is rinsed with a 0.5% hydrogen peroxide neutralizer (drugstore hydrogen peroxide used to treat cuts and wounds is around 3%). The hydrogen peroxide forms new disulfide bonds that naturally fall straight.

    From this point on, many stylists begin to take “creative liberties” and begin to dump all sorts of expensive shampoos and conditioners on your hair while also warning you that the next 48 hours you cannot wash, put it in clips or ponytail holders, eat, sleep, or breathe around your hair- basically saying “if anything goes wrong in the next 48 hours, the blame is 100% on YOU.” This is why it is extremely important to have a professional stylist who is familiar with their product and takes accountability when necessary. It’s also why I am so grateful for Bijin Salon’s Michelle, who has 22 years of experience under her belt. 

    “With the amount of information that stylists now have readily available online, there should be no excuses for professionals not to know their products.” -Michelle

    She told me straight-up that this 48-hour policy is completely made up to strip stylists of accountability: Scientifically, after the neutralizer has been introduced, there is no reason why you cannot go home and wash/put up your hair immediately. Bijin Japanese Permanent Hair Straightening is located in Farmers Branch, Texas, and you can find their website here.

    While Japanese straightening sounds great, there are still a couple of things to keep in mind. As I mentioned earlier, this is definitely a commitment. Not lifelong, but if you want your natural hair back, you’re going to have to grow it out- completely. This includes the awkward stage where your roots are curly while the ends are pin straight.

    Better and Worse Case Scenarios / Straight at Roots and End Curls / TikTok ©

    Additionally, Japanese straightening requires regular maintenance. Depending on how fast your hair grows and what your curl pattern is, root touch-ups are typically needed at least once a year. 

    Quick Recap:

    → If you are committed to getting a hair straightening treatment, the safest and longest-lasting option is by far the Japanese treatment. 

    → If you are not interested in changing your curl pattern but want softer, less frizzy hair, the formaldehyde-free keratin treatment is for you.

    General Things to Check for:

    1. Watch out for sodium hydroxide (the main chemical in drain cleaner) → it’s a strong base commonly used to raise pH levels in popular haircare. When overused, it can force the hair’s cuticle open and permanently damage keratin structure. Brands rely on it because if a product’s pH drops too low, preservatives fail, and the product’s shelf life is severely compromised. So while sodium hydroxide is often necessary, because concentrations are not disclosed, it’s important to pay attention to how your hair feels after using products that contain it.
    2. The word “straightener” is often used too loosely when describing a wide array of retexturing treatments, leading many people to conflate straighteners with smoothers and relaxers. In reality, the difference is quite simple. Straighteners use a thioglycolate solution, while smoothers either coat the hair with chemical (like a Brazilian Blowout), or use glyoxylic acid after a sodium hydroxide shampoo. Relaxers, on the other hand, and purely sodium hydroxide.
    3. “Keratin” products are largely a scam → theoretically, any hair product could be labeled “keratin” because keratin is simply what hair is made of; adding trace amounts of keratin to a product does not rebuild or restructure hair, it just temporarily coats it and doesn’t really do anything at all. Claims that keratin products are “so good for your hair’s health” are usually marketing schemes.
    3 Must-Have Hair Products for the New Year / KeratinComplex ©

    References

    American Council on Science and Health. (2018, April 21). What do perm chemicals and cystic fibrosis drugs have in common? Retrieved from https://www.acsh.org/news/2018/04/21/what-do-perm-chemicals-and-cystic-fibrosis-drugs-have-common-12844
    Color Wow. (n.d.). What is a hair cuticle? Retrieved from https://colorwowhair.com/blogs/all/what-is-a-hair-cuticle?srsltid=AfmBOopre5yB2FbyrucIX1A8_PbEIOOv2a6kudPZy7hQXLzsh-_6QXL9
    Gavazzoni Dias, M. F., de Almeida, A. M., Cecato, P. M., Adriano, A. R., & Pichler, J. (2014). The Shampoo pH can Affect the Hair: Myth or Reality?. International journal of trichology, 6(3), 95–99. https://doi.org/10.4103/0974-7753.139078
    Keratin Complex. (n.d.). 3 must-have hair products for the new year. Retrieved from https://keratincomplex.com/blogs/post/3-must-have-hair-products-for-the-new-year?srsltid=AfmBOoqDHCEha9yxfLvtUsxkvIr6Ys7J_-UcCwugTrzZRUZ6qnSPLDJu
    National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). Straight to the point: What do we know so far on hair straightening? International Journal of Cosmetic Science. Retrieved from https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8280444/
    Occupational Safety and Health Administration. (n.d.). Hair salons and stylists: background on hair smoothing products that could release formaldehyde. Retrieved from https://www.osha.gov/hair-salons/background
    The Times of Israel. (n.d.). 17-year-old girl hospitalized for kidney failure after hair-straightening treatment. Retrieved from https://www.timesofisrael.com/liveblog_entry/17-year-old-girl-hospitalized-for-kidney-failure-after-hair-straightening-treatment/

    Also, a special thank you to Michelle Moore at Bijin Salon, whose expertise offered valuable insight into the realities behind modern haircare!